Sew Beautiful Magazine

* This article can be found in Sew Beautful Issue #104, Jan / Feb 2006 *
For a printable PDF version of this article, click here

Each issue, this column will carry hints and tips to help you make your sewing look even more beautiful. The difference between “homemade” and “handmade” is often just the seamstresses’ repertoire of tiny techniques, which, when used consistently, produce that polished, professional look. I will cover garment construction techniques and lots of heirloom sewing by machine tips.

Reverse Madeira Appliqué
Windows and Hems
This technique of reverse Madeira appliqué can be used to create lovely shaped, transparent windows and hems in your garments, accessories and home dec items. I like to use an opaque’ fabric, such as handkerchief linen or silk dupioni for the base fabric, and a sheer fabric, such as silk organza or Swiss cotton organdy for the windows or hems to highlight the differences in transparency. Both base and appliqué fabrics should be of natural fibers. I use a water-soluble stabilizer (WSS) “facing” to turn the raw edges to the inside. There are many water-soluble stabilizers available, and I haven’t tried them all. For this technique, I prefer using Sulky® Super SolvyTM, as it does not seem to shrink up as much as some when ironed. If the stabilizer you are using shrinks up a lot, eliminate the ironing steps and just finger press.

Windows
1. Trace desired shape onto right side of starched and pressed base fabric.
2. Cut a piece of WSS at least 1-inch larger on all sides than traced shape. Center WSS over traced shape on right side of base fabric.
3. Using fine cotton thread to match base fabric, stitch a short straight stitch (L = 1.5 – 2.0) directly on traced line, which you should be able to see through WSS.
4. Cut out inside of stitched window, leaving slightly more than 1/8-inch seam allowance. Clip curves and corners. (Photo 1)
5. Turn WSS to wrong side of fabric. Use your fingers to manipulate fabric so that seam is right on edge, with no WSS showing from right side. Finger press, and press from right side to form a sharp crease. (Photo 2)
6. Place transparent “window” fabric under faced opening, aligning grain line with grain line of base fabric. Pin well, or use a tiny bit of water-soluble glue to secure.

7. With a 100 or 110 Universal or topstitch needle and fine cotton thread, pinstitch (L = 1.0 – 2.5; W = 1.5 – 2.0) all the way around window, with forward-and-backward portion of pinstitch going into window fabric only, and side-to-side “teeth” biting into base fabric. (Photo 3)
8. Another row of stitching will firmly secure window fabric and encase seam allowances. Stitch another row of pinstitching 1/4-inch outside first, with “teeth” pointing in toward window. (Photo 4)
9. Soak fabric to remove stabilizer. Press dry. Trim away window fabric on wrong side close to second stitching.
10. Variations of this technique would be to use a tiny featherstitch (L = 2.0; W = 1.5 – 2.0) in matching or contrasting rayon thread for second stitching, and/or to embroider a delicate motif on window fabric before stitching it to base fabric. (Photo 5) (Embroidery shown is from Martha Pullen/Zundt 5.)

Hems
1. Trace desired shape onto lower edge of starched and pressed base fabric.
2. Cut strip of WSS and stitch to right side of base fabric as for windows, with most of WSS above stitching. (Photo 6)
3. Trim, clip and turn as for windows.
4. Cut strip of organdy or organza twice the desired hem width, plus seam allowance. Press strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. (Photo 7)
5. Place raw edges of hem strip under faced base fabric. Pin. Stitch twice along shaped edge as for windows. (Photo 8)
6. Soak to remove stabilizer. Press dry. Trim away excess hem fabric close to second stitching.

For a printable PDF version of this article, click here