* This article can be found in Sew Beautful Issue #106, May / June 2006 *
For a printable PDF version of this article, click here
For a printable PDF version of this article, click here
Designed by Kathy BarnardConstructed by Carolyn Sheron
Raw bias strips make
colorful and oh-so-easy
embellishments.
Pattern is the “Sleeveless Flared Top” and the “Short Skirt” from the book Contemporary Heirlooms for the Older Girl by Martha Pullen in black and white cotton corded piqué from Martha Pullen Company. Carolyn shortened the size 10 top 2-inches to meet the waistband of the skirt. The front skirt pattern was adapted for a flap front. To make a flap front, simply cut out two front skirt pieces; draw a straight line from top to bottom on one piece approximately 1-1/2-inches from the left top edge then cut on the line (fig. 1). Embellish the front with bias strip swirls. Hem the cut edge with a double fold 1/2-inch hem, and place on top of whole front skirt. Treat as one layer to complete construction.
The idea for these outfits came from a sweet little outfit I noticed on the rack at a pricey children’s boutique. Of course, I knew right away that the embellishment that made this garment so interesting was simply bias strips sewn directly to the fabric before it was constructed. A glance at the price tag made me think that any of our readers could make a cute outfit like this for a fourth of the price. I selected some patterns, drew some sketches, picked out some fabric and sent it off to our commission designer, Carolyn Sheron, for her special touches.
As an afterthought, Carolyn and I realized there are many applications for this technique, particularly when combined with machine embroidery. Any motif can be embroidered directly over the bias strip -- a trail of ladybugs could be stitched on the black and white swirl design, or embroidered flowers could be finished off with wavy bias strip stems and leaves. Boys would love an airplane with a trail of loops across a T-shirt or a pair of shorts. The raw edges of the bias strip do not fray and look great left flat, or brushed for more fluff as shown. Only one layer of fabric is used in this technique, unlike traditional chenille shaping, which requires several layers. No template is necessary; we simply drew waves and swirls on our paper pattern and transferred them to the fabric with a washout marker. The bias strips are applied directly on top of the right side of the fabric after the pattern pieces are cut out. Then the garment is constructed as directed in the pattern. If using machine embroidery, you may need to leave enough fabric for hooping before you actually cut out the pattern. Details for each outfit are included below.
Pattern is a modification of “Abbey” from the Children’s Corner in lime green and turquoise cotton corded piqué from Martha Pullen Company. One inch was removed from the outer shoulder edge on the size 4 and tapered into the arm curves to bring the shoulder edge closer to the neck. The top was shortened 4-inches (fig. 2). The pants were made according to the pattern (note: pants run long in the crotch; we removed 2-1/2 inches from the top of each pant piece to make waistband meet child’s waist). Carolyn made a fabric flower pin for the top (template and instructions are included on the pullout centerfold).
As an afterthought, Carolyn and I realized there are many applications for this technique, particularly when combined with machine embroidery. Any motif can be embroidered directly over the bias strip -- a trail of ladybugs could be stitched on the black and white swirl design, or embroidered flowers could be finished off with wavy bias strip stems and leaves. Boys would love an airplane with a trail of loops across a T-shirt or a pair of shorts. The raw edges of the bias strip do not fray and look great left flat, or brushed for more fluff as shown. Only one layer of fabric is used in this technique, unlike traditional chenille shaping, which requires several layers. No template is necessary; we simply drew waves and swirls on our paper pattern and transferred them to the fabric with a washout marker. The bias strips are applied directly on top of the right side of the fabric after the pattern pieces are cut out. Then the garment is constructed as directed in the pattern. If using machine embroidery, you may need to leave enough fabric for hooping before you actually cut out the pattern. Details for each outfit are included below.
Pattern is a modification of “Abbey” from the Children’s Corner in lime green and turquoise cotton corded piqué from Martha Pullen Company. One inch was removed from the outer shoulder edge on the size 4 and tapered into the arm curves to bring the shoulder edge closer to the neck. The top was shortened 4-inches (fig. 2). The pants were made according to the pattern (note: pants run long in the crotch; we removed 2-1/2 inches from the top of each pant piece to make waistband meet child’s waist). Carolyn made a fabric flower pin for the top (template and instructions are included on the pullout centerfold).
For a printable PDF version of this article, click here