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Punchwork is both a pulled-thread stitch and a counted-thread stitch. It is an exercise in creating degrees of whitework. Surface embroidery stitches add interest with shadows and shine, while pulled thread stitches add open areas and shading.
This bonnet contains a good bit of punchwork. So much, in fact, that stitching it can take extra time, but it is destined to become an heirloom. Once completed, the design looks lacy and elegant. If you don’t see yourself working all the areas designated with punchwork, you can abbreviate my designs or eliminate the pulled work entirely, and the bonnet will be just as beautiful. The lace edging can also be eliminated in the event
IN THE ARTICLE
• Punchwork Stitch Instructions
MATERIALS
Pattern & Kit
• "Punchwork Bonnet"
by Wendy Schoen Designs
Fabric
• 1/4 yd of Italian organdy
• 1/4 yd of Ulster 1200 linen
• 1-3/4 yds of lace edging
(#CI-21139; 7/8 inch wide)
• Floche embroidery cotton #5200-white
• 1 Spool of # 70 Heirloom Thread (YLI White)
Embroidery Needles
• #7 Betweens (3)
• #10 Sharps (3)
• #28 Tapestry (3)
Supplies
• Beeswax
• 6- to 8-inch wooden hands-free embroidery
hoop
• 4- or 5-inch Susan Bates embroidery hoop
• Magnification with light
• Blue wash-away marker (fine point)
• Embroidery scissors
• Thimble & shield (iff applicable)
The bonnet construction steps are not included in this article, as the bonnet is simply a project on which the punchwork technique is displayed. However, the pattern is my “Punchwork Bonnet Pattern,” which can be purchased separately or as a kit. The kit contains everything needed to complete this project. To order, see the Wendy Schoen Design listing in the Shopping Guide on page 85.
• Always use one strand and the #7 between needle for the best results. Surface embroidery may be worked with a #10 sharps needle, if you prefer.
• Do not attempt this stitch without appropriate magnification.
INSTRUCTIONS
The difficulty of this stitch is defined by the first row of stitches. After the first row is established, all others can be easily rendered. The hands-free hoop is invaluable, as the stitching is predetermined by the grid, and the hoop makes it is easy to stitch with the non-dominant hand. With this hoop, the grid can be worked at lightning speed.
Complete the shadowwork first, then stitch all the other embroidery stitches (surface embroidery) before beginning the pulled-thread work.
-SB
Punch stitch is sometimes known as drawn fabric stitch and must not be confused with drawn-thread work, as the threads are not withdrawn. It is more quickly done than drawn-thread work and can be worked in small spaces. Punchwork is sometimes more commonly referred to as “Fil Tiré”, which literally translates to “pulled thread.”
A loosely woven linen should be used as the threads are easily counted and pull together with ease. A linen thread is used in the coarser work and fine cotton on fine linen or linen lawn. When working the stitch, a tapestry needle is used so it will easily slide between the fabric threads without nipping the sides. The size of the needle is determined by the weave of the fabric. The looser the weave, the larger the needle.
The shape of the design is first
outlined by the surface embroidery. This surface stitching provides a boundary or outline for the pulled thread area. Creating a boundary is critical, as it defines the edges and provides a place for tying off and
Wendy Poché Schoen is an internationally known designer, teacher and author of four books. She is also the owner/designer of Petite Poché patterns. Wendy regularly serves on the faculty of the Martha Pullen School of Art Fashion and the Smocking Arts Guild of America, and travels extensively as a guest instructor for various individual sewing organizations and heirloom shops across the country and Puerto Rico. She has served on the faculty at Sewing on the Beach, La Broderie Pour Bébé, The Children’s Corner School, and Beating around the Bush School in Adelaide, Australia.
She is a regularly featured contributor of Sew Beautiful magazine and has also been featured in McCall’s Needlework, Creative Needle, and Fancywork, as well as a special edition of Victoria Magazine Bedrooms. Wendy is the guest host of the hand-embroidery segments featured on Martha’s Sewing Room. Her international studies include the Imperial de Bordados in Madeira, Portugal, a brief study of Ayshire embroidery with renowned embroidery master, Agnes Bryson in Glasgow, Scotland, and extensive studies at the Royal School of Needlework at Hampton Court, London, England. To find out more about Wendy’s mail-order embroidery club or to order books, pattern, kits, or supplies, see her listing in the Shopping Guide on page 85.
TOOL TIPS
• I recommend a #28 tapestry, the smallest size available.
• Thread choices are critical. Only 100 percent cotton thread should be use for pulled thread. The embroidery design is worked with Floche embroidery cotton. Shadowwork is just lovely when worked with Floche.
• I suggest at least a 70wt thread such as YLI’s Heirloom Cotton Thread.
To tie on, anchor waste knot in such a position that the thread tail can be worked over. Working over three fabric threads, sew a backstitch from A to B.
To work the next stitch, sew into A, but angle needle to emerge three threads over (A to C).
Pull stitch tightly.
Continue working entire row, using sequence of A to B, A to C. Move to next row by taking a backstitch through six threads (three threads below first row) from top of first row to bottom of second row.
Begin with the A to B sequence, pulling tightly on every stitch.
To continue to next stitch, sew A to C, which is three threads over.
Complete entire grid working the same rows, each three threads down.
Rotate grid one turn so opposing rows can be stitched in the same manner. Beginning in the upper edge, stitch A to B, using the established holes.
Stitch A to C to move to next square.
Complete row and move to next row down, using the established holes for A-B points.
Completed fil tiré grid.
You may tie off in the boundary area along the sides or by tying a slip-knot through two openings on back.