from Gentle Jonah, Joan, and Jane
Featured in Issue #99
In proofing our math, we missed that the center panel needed to be 6-1/2 inches longer in order to match the smocked side panel once it was constructed to the yoke block. Below is a new cutting chart for the center front pleated panel.
Dress Center Front Panel Rectangle On Fold -
Size - Width x Height in inches
3 = 6-1/2 x 33-7/8
4 = 6-1/2 x 36-3/8
5 = 6-1/2 x 38-7/8
6 = 6-1/2 x 41-3/8
7 = 6-1/2 x 43-7/8
Please keep in mind that the reason for block construction, especially in a design like this, is to omit the exacts of having to have a separate and precise pattern for each piece. In this way, you have one single pattern that fits over a preconstructed block, which means that a little waste in cutting is to be expected. The blocks are calculated to accommodate extra waste for variables in fitting a range of sizes. The lengths given are not to be interpreted as the final appropriate length for hemming, but as a generous amount of fabric to accommodate varying lengths in that size range easily. The Joan dress bodice template is used to mark the neck, shoulders and armholes of the dress only, and will be placed on the block in a different position for each size. The pattern is shifted around on the block to achieve the best placement. The side seam length is determined by the side seams of the back skirt and yoke, or by personal length preference. Plenty of length is available for trimming to even out the bottom edges should it be necessary. This method is a little unconventional, as it is a loose way of sewing and leaves an amount of tolerance for pattern placement.
Aligning Pattern to Block
The front yoke block measuring 7 x 7-3/8 inches is intended to be used for all sizes with the understanding that there will be about a 2-inch waste at the top for a size 7, and even more waste for the smaller sizes. We selected that dimension to be sure that it would easily accommodate the largest size and allow enough room at the top for shifting, aligning and cutting out the pattern. Align the pattern with the smocking above the armhole in an appropriate place. Do not be concerned about the fabric waste above the shoulder. Do not align the top of the pattern to the top of the pieced blocks, as this will cause the smocking to end up below the armhole. To make this alignment easier, draw a line horizontally across the bodice where a high yoke would be: Measure down from the neck at the center front according to the measurements given by each size on the chart below. Now, align this line on the yoke seam, or the yoke piping of the pieced panel and cut out accordingly. Even with the waste at the top, we calculated that you will have more than enough length to accommodate a 3-1/4 inch hem and would most likely have to trim the bottom, or take a larger hem for a standard height.
Draw a guide-line on the Bodice Template
Measure down from neck at center front line and mark draw a perpendicular line across the bodice to look like a yoke line.
Size 3 = 2 inches
Size 4 = 2-1/4 inches
Size 5 = 2-1/2 inches
Size 6 = 2-5/8 inches
Size 7 = 2-3/4 inches