Easy-sew wrap skirt: From Sew Beautiful magazine

Download this project as a PDF.

By Janet Gilbert

How to make a reversible wrap skirt from a dress pattern (Sew Beautiful Collection Wrap Dress pattern).

Follow along as Janet shares how to make an elastic-waist, reversible wrap skirt using the “Wrap Dress” pattern from the Sew Beautiful pattern collection from Martha Pullen Company

This article is a free tutorial in conjunction with the article “Skirting Around” — A pictorial featuring six skirt designs you can make yourself from the Sew Beautiful Fall Issue #144. The A-line skirt pattern is the featured free skirt pattern included on the free pattern pullout section of that issue.

WRAP SKIRT INSTRUCTIONS

Materials List

  • “Wrap Dress” pattern from the Sew Beautiful pattern collection (size 8 shown).
  • 2 yards each of two contrasting fabrics (more or less will be needed depending on skirt length and size of pattern).
  • Spaghetti bias (trim).
  • 3/4 inch elastic for back waistband
  • 2 buttons for waistband
  • Twin needle and thread to match spaghetti bias trim

Preparation

  1. Trace the back and front skirt patterns from the Wrap Dress pattern. Transfer all markings. For ease in construction, clearly label the top of each pattern piece.
  2. Slice the patterns on the “lengthen and shorten here” line. Shorten the pattern to your desired length. The skirt shown was shortened to 14 inches.
  3. To make the skirt reversible, trace the shortened front skirt pattern again. Turn this copy over to create a mirror image. On this pattern remove 2 inches from bottom curved edge. Mark this pattern as the “Flounced Front”. Mark the other, longer front pattern pieces as the “Plain Front”.

Construction
Cutting and Marking

  1. Select two contrasting or coordinating fabrics. Pin the fabrics with right sides together and cut out both front skirts and the skirt backs.
  2. Designate one print as print 1 and the other as print 2.
  3. Before you unpin the fabric from the patterns, place a small safety pin on the waistline of each fabric pattern piece.
  4. Cut out a 3-inch flounce out of each fabric (see 7 Great Tips for Sewing a Flounce Ruffle below). Stay stitch the inside edges.

Print #1 Skirt Assembly

  1. Sew the inner edge of the Print 1 flounce to the Print 1 skirt front bottom edge with right sides together using a 1/2 seam allowance. Press the seam up. Remove any staystitching that may show.
  2. Sew each skirt front (plain and flounced) to each side of skirt back. Press seams open.
  3. Along the bottom edge of the skirt, measure up 2-1/2 inches and mark. This will be your placement line for the spaghetti bias.
  4. Glue baste trim in place then stitch to skirt with a twin needle (fig. 1).


    Click to Enlarge

Print #2 Skirt Assembly

Repeat these steps with the skirt pieces from Print #2 except for sewing the flounce (fig. 2).


Click to Enlarge

Reversible Skirt Assembly

  1. Pin both skirts with right sides together and stitch only the bottom edge of the back and plain front pieces together (skirt is still open at the waistline and at the flounce front)(fig. 3). Trim and notch seams. Turn right side out and press.


    Click to Enlarge
  2. Pin the Print 2 flounce to the Print 1 flounce along the outer edge with right sides together. Stitch together along the bottom edge with a 1/4 inch seam allowance (fig. 4). Trim and notch seam. Turn right side out and press.

    Click to Enlarge
  3. Tuck the top raw edge of Print 2 flounce under Print 2 front skirt piece. Turn the 1/4 inch seam allowance of skirt under and hand slip stitch along edge of trim (fig. 5).

    Click to Enlarge
  4. Baste stitch skirt together along top waist edge within seam allowance.

Waistband

Create a 1-inch (finished width) waistband out of contrasting or matching fabric.

  1. Measure the width of the front skirts and the width of the back skirt waistlines. Add a 1/2 inch seam allowance to each end. (I made my waistband with a side seam. Waistband could also be made as one continuous length.)
  2. Cut each waistband pattern piece 3-inches x this measurement. (1 inch (desired finish width) x 2 inches (fold over) + 1 inch seam allowances = 3 inches)
  3. Interface the front waistband pieces.
  4. Stitch front bands to back at side seams.
  5. Stitch one edge of waistband to skirt leaving 1/2 inch seams on each end extending skirt edges.
  6. Before completing waistband, create two ties: cut two 1-1/2-inch wide strips from fabric width (selvage to selvage). Fold strips in half lengthwise and stitch a 1/4-inch seam along long edge and one end.
  7. Turn right side out and stitch to each end of skirt waistband while band is unfolded.
  8. Press under raw edge of waistband 1/2 inch. Stitch each end with right sides together and ties sandwiched between. Flip ties out and waistband right side out (fig. 6). Wrap band over waist seam and hand slip stitch fold edge in place, leaving a 1-inch opening at each side seam for inserting elastic.

    Click to Enlarge
  9. Topstitch waistband 1/8 inch from the top edge.
  10. Insert 3/4 inch elastic into the back waistband channel. Secure ends at each side seam.
  11. Stitch a buttonhole in front waist band next to right side seam to insert one tie strip. Mark and stitch a buttonhole and button to secure front waistband (fig. 7).

    Click to Enlarge

7 Great Tips for Sewing a Flounce Ruffle

  1. A flounce is sometimes called a Flat Ruffle or a Frill. Even though it uses more fabric, a flounce can bring a more elegant look to a garment because it creates the twirl effect without adding the bulk of a gathered ruffle.
  2. All circles are not created equal when it comes to a flounce. The smaller the inside circle, the more flounce there is to your flounce (fig. 8).

    Click to Enlarge
  3. Several flounces stitched together work better and use less fabric than one large flounce.
  4. To make a flounce, find something round for the template like a dinner plate or a quilting stencil or compass. Trace each circle one at a time.
  5. Mark in the center circle the direction of the straight of the grain. In order for the flounce to hang smoothly the seam lines need to be on the grain line or true bias.
  6. A perfect flounce is one without any stretching or puckers. This is achieved by stay stitching the inside seam.
  7. The outer, raw edge is best finished with a narrow hem or a serged and rolled hem.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>